The wanderer and the lockdown

On the road after six months

 Five months, about 150 days - no stirring out of the confines of our residences - every one of us have to accept the lock-down rules and follow rules. 

The large size of the country and the sheer size of the population poses a daunting task for even the utmost efficient and responsible government; then consider the unique mix of our indifferent and insensitive administrative system at all levels and typical character of the people of this country to always break the rules! A favourable environment for the virus to make this land its home! 

The daily wage earners, auto/cab drivers, vendors and many others are constantly worried about the next meal. The government, thus, has relaxed the lock-down conditions enabling people to move from one town to another within the state but of course with the request and warning for people to be careful and not rush out like the water released from a dam. 

I had not ventured out except for brief walks in the morning hours. All public places where people gather forgetting to maintain distance are off limit for me. Many a day I was wondering about this restriction, trying to probe within - " Am I getting restless?" Do I miss preparing for a long tour/the travel or the diverse groups of people?" I don't think so. one thing flows into another and the days roll smoothly past.

When there was a talk about trains, railway stations and the rush to find our reserved seats, I certainly felt very nostalgic and sensed the longing lurking deep within me. 

After  weighing the pros and cons, we decided to travel by road to Tiruvannamalai to see my elder daughter and family(especially my granddaughter) and I could spend the 'Ganesh Chathurthi weekend with the immediate family members. Though the Ramanashram and the temple would be closed, 'Darshan of the mountain ('Annamalai) uplifts the spirit.

Ah,,,  packing things and getting ready for the travel - brought a surge of feelings and so the wanderer within me jumped with joy and did a quick twirl!! 

Those who happen to watch Tamil movies and particularly the MGR movie -"Anbe vaa" (அன்பே வா) would remember MGR's burst of energy and zest for life in the following song. (slightly modified by me!!)

"புதிய வானம், புதிய பூமி !

நான் வருகையிலே என்னை வரவேற்க புதுக் காலை விடிகிறது!

உடைய சூரியனின் பார்வையிலே உலகம் விழித்துக் கொண்ட வேளையிலே !"

 The song celebrates the beginning of a new dawn in a new place (Shimla)with 'Joie De Vivre'! The wanderer within broke out with this song during the morning drive with all beings waking up to a new morning. (All singing happened in the mental screen where images from distant pasts and recent times overlapped with the present whirred past) 

The piercing blue sky, glossy green leaves enjoying clean air sans fumes and smoke, the comparative silence of the route with less human disturbance triggered the senses sharply.

It was strange to see the 'Girivalam route (roads to go round the mountain in circumambulation) deserted and quiet  and the ashram gates tightly closed with no autos in front or people going in and coming out. But the earth seems to  have embraced this with joy. 

I had 2 days of waking up to the vision of the mountain and different bird calls. Had a great bonding time with daughters and my granddaughter. 

Getting back to the city on Monday morning, we got caught in a heavy traffic in the suburbs which uncannily looked like pre Covid time traffic. 

However, there is nothing like early morning drive by road though big and small towns and villages with velvety green fields on both sides of the road. The crops/plants are at different stages of growth - tender saplings, transplanted shoots, tall erect plants, cluster of plantain trees and the gently swaying coconut fronds and  one of the oldest natural vegetation of this state- the Palmyra just brought to memory the fertile stretch between Karur and Kulithlai in the delta. 

When I tried to look for continuity in the community life around.. what do I see? The early start of farming activities,cattle lazily feeding on dried grass, haystack and occasional bullocks grazing in the meadows could be the continuity across centuries. However, I could see tractors, heavy bikes instead of bullock carts and antenna on the roofs and the heap of plastic and non-biodegradable garbage jarring the senses. I am jolted back to the present - end of romantic dreams of the past! And that which takes the first place is the dress of women working in and around their houses - nightie, lifted up and tied around the knee like a skirt and one towel placed around the neck! Something special for this state, I think! I call it the 'national dress' of TN!!

Anyhow, reading those historic novels of Sandilyan again brought those kings like Karikal Cholan, his uncle, the traders from distant lands alive! What an amazing and fascinating time that long period starting just before Christ and going on up to 11th century CE was!

And my mind...! what kind of busy factory is that!  I am visualising horses trotting or galloping on those roads along the canals of Kaveri and feeling proud about the great Karikal Cholan who built a masonry dam across Kaveri built around 2000 years ago and the trade connection with Roman empire. 

I was wondering about the dreams and visions of those seafarers who sailed in uncharted waters, the narrow arms of Indian ocean with rocks jutting into the sea, the dangerous sea predators, pirates and tyrant rulers of distant lands. 

With this intense thoughts and visions, the travel went smoothly and here I am - back to routine but charged!

Credit: The first four photos have been shot by my daughter.)

Another day, a new way of looking at things with the young one.

 Lines, angles and shapes -all around us

Let me ask you a question - do you know other names for God Muruga? 

He is known as Karthikeya, Mayil vahana, Subrahmanya, Swaminatha and Shanmukha. He is called Shanmukha because he has six heads. Shiva is the father and Parvathy is the mother  - together they are represented in a star shape. 

Ah... I can see you rolling your eyes, and with a deep exasperated sigh say, "Paattii!". I am warming up to the story/subject, dear girl! 

The lines, and the angles brought out in kolams have their own meaning and significance. There are specifis shapes for specific worships and pooja. Tuesdays are dedicated to the planet, 'Sevvaai (Mars) and also to Lord Muruga, the Commander of the armed forces of Devas. (Mars carries the name of Roman god of war.) So on a Tuesday, remembering Karthikeya I have drawn a pattern of kolam that has six sides and angles. 

Try guessing which is my design and which is Sudha patti's!! Both have six sides and six points to them. 

This Hexagon is an interesting shape which we can find in nature around us and the objects that we create as well. Look at these pictures, You will appreciate this. 

By the way, you can recognise triangle, rectangle, square, circle and a cubic shape, can't you? All around us, in nature as well as the things made by us, humans, we can see some angle, some shape or some line. Like you watch birds and recognise snakes, keep on the look out for these shapes around you. 

 

Grand-mom to grand daughter

கைவல்யாவுடன் கதைக்கும் நேரம் 

உருளை, சக்கரம், சுழற்சி,  வட்டம்   - நம்மைச் சுற்றி எத்தனை! கேட்டவுடன்  என்ன தோன்றுகிறது , உன் மனதில் ? சூரியன் தினமும் காலையில் உதித்து , மாலையில் மறைந்து, பின் அடுத்த நாள் அதே போல நடப்பது எதில் சேரும்? 17 ஆம் தேதி முடிந்தவுடன் 18 ஆம் தேதி தொடங்குகிறது. காலை பகலாகி, மாலை வந்து பின் இருட்டாகிறது. இது சுற்றி சுற்றி வருவது போல இயற்கையில் பலவும் ஒரு சுழற்சி தான், இல்லையா? நீ  இதைக்  கேட்டதுண்டா -  "நாட்கள்  உருண்டோடின" ? உன்னைச் சுற்றி எதெல்லாம் இப்படி உருளுகிறது  (சுழல்கிறது)?  

சக்கரம் மனிதனோட பெரிய கண்டு பிடிப்பு ! 

இலட்சக் கணக்கான 
 வருடங்களுக்கு முன்னால் மனிதன் மற்ற மிருகங்களைப்போலத் தான் இருந்திருப்பான் - இருட்டென்றால் பயம், குகைகளில் வாழ்வது, பசித்தால் உணவை வேட்டையாடி உண்பது என்று வாழ்க்கை இருந்திருக்கும்.  நெருப்பு எப்படி பற்ற வைப்பது என்பதை ஏறக்குறைய 10 இலட்சம் வருடங்களுக்கு முன்னால் கண்டு பிடித்தான் - கதை மாதிரி கற்பனை செய்து பார்க்கலாம்! 

( 'Red flower' in Jungle book ஞாபகம் வருதா? )

ஆனால், சக்கரம் அவன் கையில் அவ்வளவு  எளிதாகச் சிக்காமல் உருண்டு கொண்டிருந்தது! கிட்ட தட்ட 5500 வருடங்களுக்கு முன்னால் சக்கரம் மனிதன் கைக்கு வந்தது! மிருகங்களோடு மிருகமாய் இருந்தவன் எப்படி யோசித்து சுழலும் சக்கரத்திற்கு அச்சு தேவை என்று அறிந்திருப்பான்? 

ஆனால் அறிந்த பின்னாலோ , மனிதன் வாழ்க்கை வேக வேகமாக  மாறத் தொடங்கியது! சக்கரம் இல்லையென்றால் ஒரு இயக்கமும் இல்லை! 

எந்த வண்டி/எந்திரம்  ஓடும் ? இந்தப் பாட்டி எப்படி ஊர் ஊராகச் சுற்றுவேன்!!

மண் பாண்டம் செய்யும் குயவர் தான் முதலில் சக்கரத்தை பயன் படுத்தி இருப்பார்கள். 

 நீ அம்மாவுடைய  சர்கா  பார்த்திருக்காயா? இராட்டை என்று தமிழில் சொல்லுவோம். 

   

யார் கையிலோ அது சுற்றுவதை நீ படங்களில் பார்த்திருப்பாய்! யார் அது?

வாசலில் போடும் கோலம் எத்தனையோ வடிவங்களில் இருக்கும். இரண்டு நாட்களாக , என் விரல்கள் வழியாக விழும் இழைகள் சுழன்று வட்டமாய் உருவெடுக்கின்றன! நீ பாரேன்,  சதுரமாக ஆரம்பித்தது வட்டத்தில் முடிந்து விட்டது! பக்கத்தில் சுதாப் பாட்டி கோலம்! 

 

Grand-mom to granddaughter

 The Sun, worship, kolam and me

Today is called Sunday that brings to mind Sun, doesn't it? All over the world in many places, this day seems to be dedicated to Sun, so we hear the names - Søndag in Danish, zondag in Dutch, Sonntag in German, søndag  in Norwegian and of course 'Ravivar in Hindi, Rabibara in Bengali or ஞாயிறு in Tamizh. 

You know that we worship Sun and thank him during pongal, right? That is also known as Sankaranthi in Andhra and Karnataka and it is celebrated in many places across the country. 

Sun is the source of all energy and heat for life on earth. So from very early days, like many thousands of years ago, people must have looked up and observed how the sun heats up the earth, gives enough warmth for seeds to grow or suck water from different water bodies, keep the water droplets in clouds and pour down as rain - which we all enjoy, don't we?

You hear people chanting mantras from Vedas, right? The earliest veda is Rig veda and one mantra praises the sun- as one who removes darkness when he rises in the morning. Many more prayers are found in the Vedas. 

You mentioned about 'Aditya Hridayam' - Hope you know in which story/purana it comes? Yes, sage (Rishi)Agasthya has taught that to Rama and gave him some powerful Ashthras (weapons like missiles) also to Rama. 

Mahabharata has many stories with Surya - how can we not remember Karna, son of Surya?

Egypt

Helius, Greek god of sun

     

                                                          Like people were finding things to make life more and more comfortable, learning about planets, the sun and wrote beautiful poems and stories or built beautiful palaces and temples in our country, elsewhere in the world too, human beings were discovering many things by observation. Many of those early people like our ancestors understood the importance of Sun to life on earth. So they also worshipped Sun god in different ways with different names. You know, how much our farmers closely observe the Sun and plan sowing, weeding, transplanting and other activities, don't you? Some plants need more heat with good rains while some others need a cool climate but no rain.  

Far away, across the Arabian Sea, over Arabia, to our west is a country called Egypt. Heard of that country or the famous river Nile? The most important God was Re or Ra that is the Sun God. 

There are wonderful stories connected to Sun as God in different countries. When you have the right kind of interest and curiosity, they will find you. 

There may be many questions knocking on your brain walls, I can imagine them trying to pop out of the corner of your eyes! Haha...! 

Do you wonder why there are not many temples to Sun in our country? There must have been lot of importance to Sun long back with lot of people worshipping him. There are temples or remains of some beautiful temples  These can be found in Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh, Kashmir, Uttar Pradesh, Odisa and Assam. 

Some of them, even though broken and in ruins, are so beautiful. In the temple at Konark in Odisa, during a particular day, the rays of rising sun falls straight on the main God inside.

 

                                           

   After all these stories, now you can see the welcome kolam for Sun,        today.  Sudha patti probably wanted to draw a new design or expand one small kolam in a different way. Mine is a circle but her design is different. But, it looks like going in circles!!  

Grandmother to granddaughter - in the tradition of listening to stories on the lap of Patti.'

 Sharing thoughts with Kailu.

You have read about the 'Brave women of India'. Sure, you have your questions about who did they fight against and why. I guess, Abakka is your favourite woman, am I right?

When something of your own is taken away from you without your permission, how would you react? Can anyone tell you, "This is what you should like; you should walk, talk, sleep, play and read only as I choose."?

Young people like you observe, think and understand a lot from all the life around you. So, when we say, August 15th, is Independence Day of India and we celebrate it every year in schools, offices, many other places and at homes too!. 

Can you share your ideas about what is Independence for you? How do you want to celebrate it?

I think of all the people - some known and popular, but a lot more people, not known by us and forgotten - who fought to be free of the control by the British. Today, how can we protect and appreciate this independence for me and others too. 

As a mark of my remembering all those people, I drew a kolam in front of the house.

 

You remember my friend, Sudha patti, don't you? She has drawn this design.  Doesn't her design look like the Chakra on our flag? 

 

Be free to find your joy and happiness in loving all creatures. 

Land of Ahoms

y

Nomami Brahmoputro!

We were tired then we were wired with so many ideas and plans for the next one and half days. So many choices - that's what we thought! There were ladies who wanted to go to particular textile shop; another group were holding on to the idea of a whole sale bazaar... the guide was trying to run his idea through (he was pointing out the situation on ground)

There are local friends who have suggested places to visit and significantly specified ideal places for shopping. Shopping..? "clang! the wheels rolled and clicked in place" For many of us women, it evoked an exciting image, a lovely feeling and a thrill.

But then, distances, time and the interests of all in the group have to be considered not to mention if any additional expenses are involved.

The first day till lunch was set aside for another special darshan of Maa Kamakhya. After seeing the way, the Pujaris at the temple aggressively demand money from us, I felt disinclined to make the second visit. One of the friends in the travel group has arranged for special puja and got saree to be draped on the Goddess. I thought let me try to ignore the pujaris and focus on the worship of Shakthi.

All of us decided to go through the common waiting counter; started early. As soon as the gate for the waiting hall opened, we went inside.  There were quite a number of devotees with utmost faith, chanting the names of Goddess every now and then. The barricaded and winding counters reminded me of Thirupathi. When we could sit for about 30 minutes, we chanted Lalitha Sahasranamam'  together. Many in our group were chanting Devi Sthuthis all through the waiting.

All these together with the morning hour, perhaps prepared me to go inward to that quiet space within. The churning inside slowed down and a sense of calm spread from head to toe.

I could mute the loud call of the pujaris almost ordering us to seek the blessings of different deities and move forward. When we needed to go down the uneven wet steps deep inside the cave, I felt a little tense. A suggestion given by one of the friends in the group to 'let go' and adopt a complete surrender (to the divine force) resonated with my mental frame. The pujaris there tried to hurry us and push us but that moment when I knelt and my forehead touched the water that continuously seeped into the ground...! - something shifted in me and for a very brief moment I felt so light  yet energised.

We gathered outside and when I turned to thank the person who had arranged for the puja and darshan, my eyes welled up and I was speechless. ( It came as a great shock and surprise to me because I normally cannot show emotions like that to every one.). This complete surrender,utter devotion and  feeling so secure within the embrace of Mother(the all pervading force) shook me! 

However, I am not a great 'Bhaktha and so it was a brief interlude.

Kamakhya temple is the main temple in a huge temple complex in which there are temples for other forms of Shakthi ( They are called 10 Mahavidhyas). We went up and down climbing lot of steps to visit the temples of Kali, Bhairavi, Tara, Chhinnamasta and others. Then we went a little up on the Neelachal Hill to offer our prayers to goddess Baglamukhi.
When we got back it was time to plan for the afternoon or evening trip. There ensued an interesting discussion about the choices and the time to cover them. Many of us, (ah... the magic word!) wanted a  shopping foray (like a teaser for the next day main event, perhaps?) for about 3 hours. 

Three hours, did I say? About forty women and 3 X 60 minutes - how is it a workable combination? By the time we reach a shopping area and get the first taste of the smells, sounds and colours of the area, it would be more than 2 hours.  अभी ड्रामा  तौ शुरू भी नहीं हुआ ! 

After much discussions, we decided to have the darshan of the Mighty (Is it still?) Brahmoputra at sunset and enjoy a boat ride.

It is still three months before the monsoon comes for his annual meeting with his friend, Brahmoputra. Do you know, Brahmoputra is personified as a male devatha unlike all other river goddesses?

I had seen that stretch of Akhanda Kaveri near Trichirapalli in Tamil Nadu. The river is wide and broad just at the beginning of delta near a place called Kulithalai. It is a magnificent sight to behold! (When the monsoon is happy to pay the regular visit along the ghats and the catchment area fills up to the brim) 

I know certainly that this southern belle is no comparison to this eastern giant and so we can appreciate the huge amount of water (it would look so for us who are water-starved!) even in March. Perhaps the cultural and social tradition of looking at these rivers as divine has a deep root in me. The first sight of the river made me pause and think of the 1000s of years it is flowing - witnessing the many upheavals, celebrations and losses of people along its banks. It has sustained, nurtured and also caused destruction in its wake. I remembered all those Film division documentaries which used to play before a film in the movie halls (long ago) which would show flood in Bihar, Assam and other such places. Still, the breeze blowing across the water reminded me of a loving and nurturing father. 

We went on a boat ride to Umananda Devaloi (temple) in the middle of the river, located on a small riverine island called Umananda island or Peacock island.  The temple is on a small hillock known as Bhasmacala or Bhasmakuta.

 

There are interesting legends built around the hillock and the temple like the one which describes Kamadeva disrupting the meditation of Shiva and as a result being burnt to ashes by the anger of Shiva. Hence the hillock got the name - Bhasmakuta. Interesting, right? Every stone, a bend in the tree, the shape of a mountain, birth of a river, the onset of rains  or a lonely boulder standing in a barren landscape - you name it, there would be at least 4 or 5 different stories to explain the presence of the phenomenon! At present, whether we spin such stories rich in history, myth, culture and social beliefs or not, our ancestors definitely had perfected the art of story making and telling! 

A climb consisting of about 80 to 100 steps leads us to the main temple. Despite so many tourists moving about, the serenity of the place with the ever present drizzle just soaked me completely. The view with endless water of the river reflecting the changing hues of the sun and the sky was breath taking. We made this trip post lunch  and siesta. The whole day, it was cloudy with occasional showers. There was a foggy, misty sort of cover over the river. Late in the day, perhaps the Sun god thought of marking his attendance and looking over the city, the people and the river. So, there was the Sun coming out for a brief span of time to give us a glimpse of the magic of sun set, touching a spark to the river. 

(We had to return within an hour to be on the steamer as  that may be the last ferry trip of the day. We worked out that we had about 30 to 35 minutes for climbing up and down. It put many of us in a jam - would we be able to do it or we would delay others. Hey! aren't we the 'naarishakthi'? Most of us have faced tough situations and emerged successfully out of them, haven;t we? Yes, looked at each other and drew strength from one another, put our foot forward, swung our arms and up we went! And.... what a sight to behold! There is not the usual hustle bustle associated with the temples at popular tourist spots. By then the late afternoon sun was bathing the island and the water around in a golden hue. There is that silence among the trees, plants and all natural objects that engulf every being during the gap in a rainy spell.

  

We made it down to the boat in time for the ride back. The Sun put up that magic show on the sky and on the water surface so that we can go home happily! 

It may not be like the setting after a clear day still it was spectacular!    

The following shows the setting sun, the sky and the river one merging with the other in a celebration from some other time by someone else!

 (https://beyondlust.in/tag/umananda-temple/)

I fell in love with the attitude of the woman selling 'bhutta' on the shore and could not resist the temptation to click a picture of that look!  Of course, bought a corncob from her!                              

Now, what about shopping? Anyone - game for some sightseeing?

The women in the  group are resourceful and enterprising! So what if we could not go out shopping? The shops could come to us , couldn't they? This friend, Geetha, has local connections and can 'katha bala' (কথা বলা) in Bangla. So she was trying to get the special things of Assam  for us. After an evening along the shores of Brahmoputra,  a person dealing in designer jewellery, brought a large collection of bracelets, trinkets, rings, chains, dangler ear pieces and many more. We just 'window shopped' (if i could use the word!). It was getting late and it as well past bed time. So called it a day and turned in for a good night's sleep. So much to look forward to, the next day. 

Don't know what is it with shopping and women! Our roommate who was down with fever and cough, perked up in the morning for the shopping. I could sense high energy buzzing around us all. 

We went around Pragjyoti Assam Emporium, Silkalay and one more place. Looking at crafted items in bamboo and wood, the faces lighted up and just short of a war cry, attacked the section to get different kinds of gifts like fridge door magnets, key chains, lamp shades, bags, exquisitely created bamboo purses and some curios. 

Then there is that indescribable attraction to sarees - the beautiful muga, Eri silk varieties, crisp cotton in traditional white, cream or lemon shades, not to forget the typical Assamese Mekhela chador and shawls and stoles. Can you visualise water dammed for sometime breaking out of the restraints? In full spate and speed it would flow to fill every crevice, nook and cranny, wouldn't it? 

Yes, you guessed right. All the counters, upstairs, ground floor - wherever there was an interesting display, our friends were there! 

The very few men in the group were packed off to visit the zoo. With successful completion of 'Operation Fulfillment', now was the time for juggling the things in our suitcases to adjust the weight. We have a flight to catch in the evening to go home and we have to consider the maximum weight that we could carry. 

The city was sending us off with one big shower to cherish. 

We visited the Balaji temple on the way, had a peaceful darshan and a lovely lunch provided by the temple management. (With aromatic and tangy rasam and soothing curd!)With Perumal's blessings and prasad, we started our journey back.

The wait , suspense and strategies to tackle the problem of extra baggage was a drama in itself. Thinking back, we can laugh about it but those 30 minutes or so during 'check-in' was stressful! 

By late evening we were back to the sweltering heat of Chennai.