Land of Ahoms

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Nomami Brahmoputro!

We were tired then we were wired with so many ideas and plans for the next one and half days. So many choices - that's what we thought! There were ladies who wanted to go to particular textile shop; another group were holding on to the idea of a whole sale bazaar... the guide was trying to run his idea through (he was pointing out the situation on ground)

There are local friends who have suggested places to visit and significantly specified ideal places for shopping. Shopping..? "clang! the wheels rolled and clicked in place" For many of us women, it evoked an exciting image, a lovely feeling and a thrill.

But then, distances, time and the interests of all in the group have to be considered not to mention if any additional expenses are involved.

The first day till lunch was set aside for another special darshan of Maa Kamakhya. After seeing the way, the Pujaris at the temple aggressively demand money from us, I felt disinclined to make the second visit. One of the friends in the travel group has arranged for special puja and got saree to be draped on the Goddess. I thought let me try to ignore the pujaris and focus on the worship of Shakthi.

All of us decided to go through the common waiting counter; started early. As soon as the gate for the waiting hall opened, we went inside.  There were quite a number of devotees with utmost faith, chanting the names of Goddess every now and then. The barricaded and winding counters reminded me of Thirupathi. When we could sit for about 30 minutes, we chanted Lalitha Sahasranamam'  together. Many in our group were chanting Devi Sthuthis all through the waiting.

All these together with the morning hour, perhaps prepared me to go inward to that quiet space within. The churning inside slowed down and a sense of calm spread from head to toe.

I could mute the loud call of the pujaris almost ordering us to seek the blessings of different deities and move forward. When we needed to go down the uneven wet steps deep inside the cave, I felt a little tense. A suggestion given by one of the friends in the group to 'let go' and adopt a complete surrender (to the divine force) resonated with my mental frame. The pujaris there tried to hurry us and push us but that moment when I knelt and my forehead touched the water that continuously seeped into the ground...! - something shifted in me and for a very brief moment I felt so light  yet energised.

We gathered outside and when I turned to thank the person who had arranged for the puja and darshan, my eyes welled up and I was speechless. ( It came as a great shock and surprise to me because I normally cannot show emotions like that to every one.). This complete surrender,utter devotion and  feeling so secure within the embrace of Mother(the all pervading force) shook me! 

However, I am not a great 'Bhaktha and so it was a brief interlude.

Kamakhya temple is the main temple in a huge temple complex in which there are temples for other forms of Shakthi ( They are called 10 Mahavidhyas). We went up and down climbing lot of steps to visit the temples of Kali, Bhairavi, Tara, Chhinnamasta and others. Then we went a little up on the Neelachal Hill to offer our prayers to goddess Baglamukhi.
When we got back it was time to plan for the afternoon or evening trip. There ensued an interesting discussion about the choices and the time to cover them. Many of us, (ah... the magic word!) wanted a  shopping foray (like a teaser for the next day main event, perhaps?) for about 3 hours. 

Three hours, did I say? About forty women and 3 X 60 minutes - how is it a workable combination? By the time we reach a shopping area and get the first taste of the smells, sounds and colours of the area, it would be more than 2 hours.  अभी ड्रामा  तौ शुरू भी नहीं हुआ ! 

After much discussions, we decided to have the darshan of the Mighty (Is it still?) Brahmoputra at sunset and enjoy a boat ride.

It is still three months before the monsoon comes for his annual meeting with his friend, Brahmoputra. Do you know, Brahmoputra is personified as a male devatha unlike all other river goddesses?

I had seen that stretch of Akhanda Kaveri near Trichirapalli in Tamil Nadu. The river is wide and broad just at the beginning of delta near a place called Kulithalai. It is a magnificent sight to behold! (When the monsoon is happy to pay the regular visit along the ghats and the catchment area fills up to the brim) 

I know certainly that this southern belle is no comparison to this eastern giant and so we can appreciate the huge amount of water (it would look so for us who are water-starved!) even in March. Perhaps the cultural and social tradition of looking at these rivers as divine has a deep root in me. The first sight of the river made me pause and think of the 1000s of years it is flowing - witnessing the many upheavals, celebrations and losses of people along its banks. It has sustained, nurtured and also caused destruction in its wake. I remembered all those Film division documentaries which used to play before a film in the movie halls (long ago) which would show flood in Bihar, Assam and other such places. Still, the breeze blowing across the water reminded me of a loving and nurturing father. 

We went on a boat ride to Umananda Devaloi (temple) in the middle of the river, located on a small riverine island called Umananda island or Peacock island.  The temple is on a small hillock known as Bhasmacala or Bhasmakuta.

 

There are interesting legends built around the hillock and the temple like the one which describes Kamadeva disrupting the meditation of Shiva and as a result being burnt to ashes by the anger of Shiva. Hence the hillock got the name - Bhasmakuta. Interesting, right? Every stone, a bend in the tree, the shape of a mountain, birth of a river, the onset of rains  or a lonely boulder standing in a barren landscape - you name it, there would be at least 4 or 5 different stories to explain the presence of the phenomenon! At present, whether we spin such stories rich in history, myth, culture and social beliefs or not, our ancestors definitely had perfected the art of story making and telling! 

A climb consisting of about 80 to 100 steps leads us to the main temple. Despite so many tourists moving about, the serenity of the place with the ever present drizzle just soaked me completely. The view with endless water of the river reflecting the changing hues of the sun and the sky was breath taking. We made this trip post lunch  and siesta. The whole day, it was cloudy with occasional showers. There was a foggy, misty sort of cover over the river. Late in the day, perhaps the Sun god thought of marking his attendance and looking over the city, the people and the river. So, there was the Sun coming out for a brief span of time to give us a glimpse of the magic of sun set, touching a spark to the river. 

(We had to return within an hour to be on the steamer as  that may be the last ferry trip of the day. We worked out that we had about 30 to 35 minutes for climbing up and down. It put many of us in a jam - would we be able to do it or we would delay others. Hey! aren't we the 'naarishakthi'? Most of us have faced tough situations and emerged successfully out of them, haven;t we? Yes, looked at each other and drew strength from one another, put our foot forward, swung our arms and up we went! And.... what a sight to behold! There is not the usual hustle bustle associated with the temples at popular tourist spots. By then the late afternoon sun was bathing the island and the water around in a golden hue. There is that silence among the trees, plants and all natural objects that engulf every being during the gap in a rainy spell.

  

We made it down to the boat in time for the ride back. The Sun put up that magic show on the sky and on the water surface so that we can go home happily! 

It may not be like the setting after a clear day still it was spectacular!    

The following shows the setting sun, the sky and the river one merging with the other in a celebration from some other time by someone else!

 (https://beyondlust.in/tag/umananda-temple/)

I fell in love with the attitude of the woman selling 'bhutta' on the shore and could not resist the temptation to click a picture of that look!  Of course, bought a corncob from her!                              

Now, what about shopping? Anyone - game for some sightseeing?

The women in the  group are resourceful and enterprising! So what if we could not go out shopping? The shops could come to us , couldn't they? This friend, Geetha, has local connections and can 'katha bala' (কথা বলা) in Bangla. So she was trying to get the special things of Assam  for us. After an evening along the shores of Brahmoputra,  a person dealing in designer jewellery, brought a large collection of bracelets, trinkets, rings, chains, dangler ear pieces and many more. We just 'window shopped' (if i could use the word!). It was getting late and it as well past bed time. So called it a day and turned in for a good night's sleep. So much to look forward to, the next day. 

Don't know what is it with shopping and women! Our roommate who was down with fever and cough, perked up in the morning for the shopping. I could sense high energy buzzing around us all. 

We went around Pragjyoti Assam Emporium, Silkalay and one more place. Looking at crafted items in bamboo and wood, the faces lighted up and just short of a war cry, attacked the section to get different kinds of gifts like fridge door magnets, key chains, lamp shades, bags, exquisitely created bamboo purses and some curios. 

Then there is that indescribable attraction to sarees - the beautiful muga, Eri silk varieties, crisp cotton in traditional white, cream or lemon shades, not to forget the typical Assamese Mekhela chador and shawls and stoles. Can you visualise water dammed for sometime breaking out of the restraints? In full spate and speed it would flow to fill every crevice, nook and cranny, wouldn't it? 

Yes, you guessed right. All the counters, upstairs, ground floor - wherever there was an interesting display, our friends were there! 

The very few men in the group were packed off to visit the zoo. With successful completion of 'Operation Fulfillment', now was the time for juggling the things in our suitcases to adjust the weight. We have a flight to catch in the evening to go home and we have to consider the maximum weight that we could carry. 

The city was sending us off with one big shower to cherish. 

We visited the Balaji temple on the way, had a peaceful darshan and a lovely lunch provided by the temple management. (With aromatic and tangy rasam and soothing curd!)With Perumal's blessings and prasad, we started our journey back.

The wait , suspense and strategies to tackle the problem of extra baggage was a drama in itself. Thinking back, we can laugh about it but those 30 minutes or so during 'check-in' was stressful! 

By late evening we were back to the sweltering heat of Chennai.