Understanding our legacy

Wander lust, the longing to find the hidden stories in the life, language and customs of people and the awe inspiring forts and temples which had witnessed the rise and fall of dynasties   - What else do I need to pack a bag, don a hat and plunge into the mysterious world of travel?

Quite a lot of us born in the fifties of the previous century have been nurtured on a diet of interesting historic novels, here in Tamil Nadu. Many of them would be about the great Imperial Cholas and the tour is structured around one particular novel (Son of Kaveri - ‘Ponniyin Selvan’ in Tamil). The romantic in me would have travelled along with them on horseback, been part of important court discussions, even fought alongside with the great warriors and more than that, I would be the brave princess or the wise one whose words influenced the history of the kingdom!

So, is it a surprise that I readily joined the heritage tour which promised to provide a glimpse into the glorious period of king Raja raja Chola and his son, Rajendra?

Thoughtful tour schedule, well organised stays and the dedication and commitment of the tour organisers simply enriched the experience.

What struck me from the beginning is the organisers’ drive to not only initiate us into recognising and appreciating our heritage but to motivate us to carry it forward to the next generation.

The novel begins along the banks of the vast Veeranarayapuram Lake where the protagonist, the smart and quick witted spy Vandiyathevan would be riding on his horse to reach the Chola capital, Thanjavur. But for this lake, there would have been a great water crisis for the people of Chennai as this lake is the supplier of major share of water needs of Chennai. We took a few minutes to think of the foresight of a Chola prince during 10^th century in building this 11.2 Km long and 4 Km wide lake.

In the 19^th century, British engineer, Arthur Cotton was highly impressed by the strong structure of the lake. Here we are, utterly indifferent to the wisdom, plan and skill that have made this water reservoir more than 1000 years ago!

The story unfolds as he encounters some challenges, meet people from different walks of life. The story is woven around a few historical facts like the murder of the crown prince and how later, Raja Raja comes to throne.

We moved along the spy’s trail, visiting certain battle fields, temples built around hero stones and of course the temples of Darasuram, Gangaikonda Cholapuram and the Thanjavur temple - architectural and engineering marvels and World Heritage sites.  

The entire tour was approached from different angles - intellectual, emotional and sensory.

The temples are visual delight and when experts in ancient architecture and sculpture were there to direct our attention to details, it simply enhanced the experience. And each carving, each niche, turn, pillars and corners of those beauties in granite tell a different story and what kinds of drama they hold within!

 Three different temples, built by three different kings - father, son and grandson - each unique in its grandeur, character, structure such that each truly reflected the character of the king who built them. At least to me, that is how it appeared.

 

When we stood in front of Thanjavur ‘big temple’ in the morning just before sunrise, the sky was overcast. People have already started inching in. I do not think anyone can enter without being stunned at the entrance (Gopura). The sheer magnitude of the outer walls, the thickness and height, the once - present moat, the inner wall, and the two dwarapalaka (gate keepers) take your breath away. 

 We had a great scholar, expert in conservation architecture, archaeology, iconography, sculpture, history, literature, and marine archaeology (and all other disciplines under the Sun) to explain things to us. The moment he began highlighting the great features of the gate, height, width, length and other structural aspects passionately with pride, something deep within me moved. I felt as though, the spirit of the great king blessed that moment and all of us there.  

The battleground of the decisive battle which marked the beginning of Chola Empire is now green paddy fields but they are aware that those ancestors who fought the war and had died there were buried under their fields. There is a reverence and pride when they talk about it and we had a lot of fun when they presented a skit based on one incident from the novel.

  

The whole account would remain incomplete, if I do not mention the human factor. The experts’ explanations and other slide shows of the dynastic history were all interactive and the simplicity and ease with which the expert scholars joked around and tirelessly explained many things provided for an interesting learning. The villagers on the way, wherever we stopped for a site visit, showered us with their unreserved affection and open hospitality. We were loaded with tender coconuts, millet porridge, buttermilk and snacks. I was pleasantly surprised by the sense of history and the awareness about 1000 and more years of cultural and political legacy that sits well on their shoulders. The honest and open look and that megawatts smile that light the entire place - Oh! Where have we lost that warmth and human touch! 

All of us - belonging to this land regardless of the narrow restrictive regional and linguistic identity can be proud of this legacy for these two great kings dreamt big and scaled great heights.