Walking on the path of Vandiyathevan
A historical trip/ heritage tour? What is it that I have signed myself in for? Wasn't that going to be a nostalgic trip for the die-hard fan of the novel? Yes, the churning in my mind had begun with the tour day fast approaching. Patience, my friends. The tour organisers had put together a tour to ensure a rich, well rounded experience, no doubt! But I was curious as to when and how would they introduce us to a brief study of Chola history and the war strategies of Rajendra Chola as their itinerary promised.
I was excited as April 26th was just round the corner. How many ever trips I make - long/short; brief/overnight; by road/train - I love the preparations of packing and completing tasks in hand on time. On these types of tours every thing is new - new people to befriend, new places to visit, new boarding houses and new food!That adds to the excitement, don't you think? Finally, the moment came. When I boarded the bus, the first of the introductions were already over as we were waiting in the same pick up point.
Darkness was falling outside and inside the bus, we had our introduction session and snacks to munch along. If you think, the six hours of travel went like this, you are mistaken. The first session of lecture cum slide shows with flow charts and maps began in the bus. It covered the dynastic history of Cholas, the cultural aspects of life then and the list of sources of history. I wonder how Mr. Ramesh, who was in charge of such lectures did this without slipping up anywhere. ("Been there and done it all"as a history teacher.) An interesting warm up?
Amidst a soothing green of tall coconut trees, flowering plants and mango trees, there is an old style Zamindar bungalow with an extension serving as a resort and yes, it was our first stop. Morning, we woke up to chirping birds and a quiet dawn. I was excited as April 26th was just round the corner. How many ever trips I make - long/short; brief/overnight; by road/train - I love the preparations of packing and completing tasks in hand on time. On these types of tours every thing is new - new people to befriend, new places to visit, new boarding houses and new food!That adds to the excitement, don't you think? Finally, the moment came. When I boarded the bus, the first of the introductions were already over as we were waiting in the same pick up point.
With a tempting and delicious spread of home made
array of dishes, I had to be monk renouncing the pleasures of taste, not to overeat. Only a wee bit, I shushed the warning voice!
We began the exploration of the day - to walk on the trail of the spy along the Veeranarayanapuram lake. I could remember the unfolding of the scenes of festivity along the lake and our hero's thoughts very vividly.
"What joyous delight even as I approach the Chola Kingdom! What wonders will the fertile, bountiful land beyond Kollidam hold? How would the men and women of that country behave? How many rivers? How many reservoirs? How many clear streams? How wondrous would be the river Ponni (Cauvery) praised in song and epic?"
This is how our hero Vandiya thevan - heart swelling with pride - moved along the lake. When I stood on the banks of the lake, with fair amount of water, was there any reason for me to feel other than pride? The sheer size, about 72 canals/floodgates still in working condition and wise water conservation and management techniques of about 1000 years ago definitely make us proud but what is our role here?
It was still early days of the new Chola kingdom when they have to face imminent threat of invading armies from Rashtrakutas (north) or a constant attack from the long time enemies - Pandyas. Prince Rajaditya with his army was anticipating an invasion from the Rashtrakutas but what should a responsible and future king do while waiting? He did not keep his soldiers idle but involved them in building a lake which would receive waters from the northern tributaries of Cauvery. A lesson or two for our political and corporate leaders, eh?
How did he name it? Certainly not after him but to honour his father, Parantaka, he named it Veera narayanapuram lake.
With a promise that we would walk the road once again in the evening we went in search of Kadambur palace - where secret meetings took place and plans to murder the ailing Chola king (Sundara Chola), the crown prince (Aditya Karikala) and his younger brother, Arulmozhi varman (who later becomes the great Chola ruler, Rajaraja I). There are ruins of what could have been a palace but the temple nearby has an important inscription about the trial of the murder of the crown prince. The inscription clearly mentions the names of the three brothers whose brainchild was the assassination plot. There are different versions about why these three were not punished but one thing is certain - the lands of even the distant relatives of these people were confiscated by the government.
The local expert, an octogenarian scholar and teacher regaled us with many stories about the places on the way the past and present scenario and presented a vivid picture of the trial for the murder of Aditya Karikala, conducted by Rajaraja at the very same place in that temple where we sat around him. I was trying to understand and absorb the depth and intensity of the events. My mind kept coming back to the same point - Rajaraja, the individual and wondered what kind of emotions he had to hide and what he had to exaggerate?
But then refreshing drinks - typical local versions like 'Nungu'(Palmyra fruit), Nannari sherbet (Sarsaparilla) and others were waiting for us back in the resort; the local farmers had an entertainment planned for us - a skit depicting the chieftains coming together at Kadambur playing power games too was part of the afternoon plan.
Then of course, evening would bring us a visual treat - which words cannot do justice to!
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