Ensconced in the clouds:
The cold was way too much for most of the ladies in the group. Me? Of course, I also felt it but I was excited too when my bare feet touched the ice cold floor or when my hands came into contact with the freezing water!
The schedule had to be rearranged as there was curfew in Cherrapunji. The fact that things were not going to move as per the original plan did definitely put the organisers (the two smart graceful ladies) in a spin.
The cold weather (or is it the stress of ensuring the smooth travel with maximum satisfaction to every one?) brought discomfort to my friend and roommate - throat infection and related problems. (Yes, she was one of the planners behind the travel plan.)
Then I saw flurry of activity in and out of the rooms - ladies carrying tablets, warm water or preparation of 'nilavembu kashayam to administer to the 'cough and cold affected' friends. (It is referred to as 'Kalmegh in Ayurvedha and also known as Siriyanangai; known in English as Andrographis or King of bitters. It has become popular in Tamil Nadu with the outbreak of Dengue fever. Its bitter taste surpasses that of neem)
Getting ready in the morning was a challenge with that cold but fun as well! (Early morning it was
16 ° C after a moderate downpour.) It was so exhilarating to come out and lift your face to the sharp chilly wind and feel the nudge of the warmth from the late rising sun.
The plan was to see some local sites - not driving long to see only one place; So we drove through cantonment passing Military hospital, GOC, 101 Area's house, Eastern Air command and many other central government offices on the way.
So what I was curious about? - of course observing the people, knowing their daily tasks, dreams and what make them laugh!
So I was looking out of the mini bus's window trying to take it all in while our guide struggled to communicate to us the beauty and the importance of the places he was taking us to!! (of course he used the lingua franca of the world but with typical Assamese accent!). If we speak in 'Tanglish', he can do in 'Asanglish', that is not the problem. It was a bit difficult for us to decode his language and syntax.
Our first stop was Elephant Falls.
It is named so after a rock at the base which looked like an elephant but now there is no such rock. The rock was destroyed in the earthquake of 1897. The name given by the colonial masters has stuck but in the local Kasi language, it is known as Ka Kshaid Lai Pateng Khohsiew. It literally translates as 'Three steps waterfall'. Yes, it is made of three waterfalls - the first step is broad and slow and it is within the dense forest cover; the second step lacks a sheer drop but the third one is a tumbling down cascade of water with a sheer drop.
There is flight of steps to go to each level but of course, the climbing up and down was a challenge for many of us with knee pain or related issues. still we did it and then there was a small market square with all the typical hill products - key chains, small carved animals and colourful scarves, shawls and mufflers with typical tribal motifs of the Khasis, Nagas or others. Like flies drawn to a heap of sweets, we just were pulled towards these shops. stuffed with some typical 'Pahadi materials', (first of the shopping) and that unique light on our faces (that which follows a shopping campaign naturally!), we boarded the bus.
There are some more sites closer to the Falls like the Air force Museum or the Shillong peak or the Krem Marai cave(one of the largest cave systems in India with a diverse flora and fauna).
The point is we could not make lot of deviations from the original itinerary and going into the town and then to the surrounding sites took unusually long time - one main road with two way traffic going up and down. But the remarkable discipline and patience of the locals was unbelievable. someone remarked," Would we ever have such a traffic scene in Chennai!" - no honking, no overtaking and none jumping lanes!
The next place was the star of the day and place, I would say. It was emotionally and spiritually uplifting; there was that sense of harmony and peace with all the creation around and I felt blessed to be one part of this wonderful creation.
Around 20 to 25 km away from the city of Shillong, in the east Khasi hills is this village - Mawphlang. it means 'Grassy stone in Khasi language. The village as such is built to showcase the traditional lifestyle of Khasi tribes.
But we went to the sacred forest or grove called Lawkyntang in Khasi. As a continuation of their tribal tradition - worshipping nature and preserving it - this dense forest is preserved through strict religious sanctions. It is like a biological museum - nature taking care of all within , untarnished by human beings.
Crossing small villages with typical houses with glass and stones,
occasionally the modern concrete ones too, we reached a vast expanse of velvety grassland which suddenly gave way to a dense forest at the end.
We had two local guides who know the forest tracks to take us on a tour. They had explained how the Khasi people continue to believe the sacred spirits of the forest and protect and nurture the forests. Each tribal kingdom, it appears, has one sacred grove. There are about 53 tribal kingdoms and each has a sacred forest to protect and nurture. This one is protected by Lyngdoh clan. As we entered the forest, the stillness, the rhythm of life in the wild just engulfed me.
For the town bred and uninitiated with the ways of the ancient wisdom of the tribal people, it would look like giant trees spreading their roots everywhere and an all pervading eeriness coating the green plants and brown earth. When the smart young local guides dramatically told the story of the tribal worshipping rituals, I could visulise the tree spirits looking down at us with their wise eyes.
The guides had already outlined the importance of the sacred groves and the traditional ritualistic practices; as we stepped in, my senses began to be attuned to the tree ancestors. The air was thick with generations of prayers, festivals and sacrifices to their deity Labasa. There was a rich biodiversity - tall trees, medicinal plants, orchids, thick foliage of ferns, creepers and mushrooms. Many of the plants, I felt, were endemic to that region. The guides showed the tall very old Rudraksha tree and also the rudraksha fallen there. The typical Khasi pine , I believe is highly medicinal.
In the entire area, rain come. How I wished I could recognise the different trees! With the slightest of provocation, You see the sky darkening, and hear a distant clap of thunder and there! the sky opens up to pour down. That and the humus collecting undisturbed for years weave this green magic. When you enter from the vast space covered with grass into a green tunnel, the change is so dramatic (I was reminded of Alice falling into the wonderland!)
You could see some memorial stones like structures and in the clearing an altar like structure in the above photos. It was their place of sacrifice. they showed even a raised stone for the elder or chief to sit and supervise the rituals.
The unwavering faith of the Khasi people in the sacred forest has kept the forest spirit intact. I do believe in trees as our ancestors and their communication with us. They are very particular that the things of forest remain within the forest; you cannot take even a small piece of twig or a dried leaf outside. It is an absolute rule!
Even today the people live in close harmony with their forest - having annual festivals celebrated to appease the forest spirit and offer animals as sacrifice. Our guide insisted it is the reddish brown bull. I am not sure, what do they sacrifice now. I remember reading that they sacrifice goats and rooster.
If only one could be alone with the trees within the forest for even five minutes...
Then, we would be lost inside and there may be some wild predators!
Being there was a unique experience which I would rate as Number 1. (But you should pick a great story teller as your local guide. That will enrich your experience.)
As you go around 2 places, with the long wait in the traffic on mountains, it is already evening and begins to get dark. Remember, the place was just limping back to normalcy. So, it is back to the rooms, dinner, a session of 'Anthakshari' and to bed with the room heater on!.
The cold was way too much for most of the ladies in the group. Me? Of course, I also felt it but I was excited too when my bare feet touched the ice cold floor or when my hands came into contact with the freezing water!
The schedule had to be rearranged as there was curfew in Cherrapunji. The fact that things were not going to move as per the original plan did definitely put the organisers (the two smart graceful ladies) in a spin.
The cold weather (or is it the stress of ensuring the smooth travel with maximum satisfaction to every one?) brought discomfort to my friend and roommate - throat infection and related problems. (Yes, she was one of the planners behind the travel plan.)
Then I saw flurry of activity in and out of the rooms - ladies carrying tablets, warm water or preparation of 'nilavembu kashayam to administer to the 'cough and cold affected' friends. (It is referred to as 'Kalmegh in Ayurvedha and also known as Siriyanangai; known in English as Andrographis or King of bitters. It has become popular in Tamil Nadu with the outbreak of Dengue fever. Its bitter taste surpasses that of neem)
Getting ready in the morning was a challenge with that cold but fun as well! (Early morning it was
16 ° C after a moderate downpour.) It was so exhilarating to come out and lift your face to the sharp chilly wind and feel the nudge of the warmth from the late rising sun.
The plan was to see some local sites - not driving long to see only one place; So we drove through cantonment passing Military hospital, GOC, 101 Area's house, Eastern Air command and many other central government offices on the way.
So what I was curious about? - of course observing the people, knowing their daily tasks, dreams and what make them laugh!
So I was looking out of the mini bus's window trying to take it all in while our guide struggled to communicate to us the beauty and the importance of the places he was taking us to!! (of course he used the lingua franca of the world but with typical Assamese accent!). If we speak in 'Tanglish', he can do in 'Asanglish', that is not the problem. It was a bit difficult for us to decode his language and syntax.
Our first stop was Elephant Falls.
(Again, 'all in the game'!)
It is named so after a rock at the base which looked like an elephant but now there is no such rock. The rock was destroyed in the earthquake of 1897. The name given by the colonial masters has stuck but in the local Kasi language, it is known as Ka Kshaid Lai Pateng Khohsiew. It literally translates as 'Three steps waterfall'. Yes, it is made of three waterfalls - the first step is broad and slow and it is within the dense forest cover; the second step lacks a sheer drop but the third one is a tumbling down cascade of water with a sheer drop. 
There is flight of steps to go to each level but of course, the climbing up and down was a challenge for many of us with knee pain or related issues. still we did it and then there was a small market square with all the typical hill products - key chains, small carved animals and colourful scarves, shawls and mufflers with typical tribal motifs of the Khasis, Nagas or others. Like flies drawn to a heap of sweets, we just were pulled towards these shops. stuffed with some typical 'Pahadi materials', (first of the shopping) and that unique light on our faces (that which follows a shopping campaign naturally!), we boarded the bus.The point is we could not make lot of deviations from the original itinerary and going into the town and then to the surrounding sites took unusually long time - one main road with two way traffic going up and down. But the remarkable discipline and patience of the locals was unbelievable. someone remarked," Would we ever have such a traffic scene in Chennai!" - no honking, no overtaking and none jumping lanes!
The next place was the star of the day and place, I would say. It was emotionally and spiritually uplifting; there was that sense of harmony and peace with all the creation around and I felt blessed to be one part of this wonderful creation.
Around 20 to 25 km away from the city of Shillong, in the east Khasi hills is this village - Mawphlang. it means 'Grassy stone in Khasi language. The village as such is built to showcase the traditional lifestyle of Khasi tribes.
But we went to the sacred forest or grove called Lawkyntang in Khasi. As a continuation of their tribal tradition - worshipping nature and preserving it - this dense forest is preserved through strict religious sanctions. It is like a biological museum - nature taking care of all within , untarnished by human beings.
We had two local guides who know the forest tracks to take us on a tour. They had explained how the Khasi people continue to believe the sacred spirits of the forest and protect and nurture the forests. Each tribal kingdom, it appears, has one sacred grove. There are about 53 tribal kingdoms and each has a sacred forest to protect and nurture. This one is protected by Lyngdoh clan. As we entered the forest, the stillness, the rhythm of life in the wild just engulfed me.
For the town bred and uninitiated with the ways of the ancient wisdom of the tribal people, it would look like giant trees spreading their roots everywhere and an all pervading eeriness coating the green plants and brown earth. When the smart young local guides dramatically told the story of the tribal worshipping rituals, I could visulise the tree spirits looking down at us with their wise eyes. The guides had already outlined the importance of the sacred groves and the traditional ritualistic practices; as we stepped in, my senses began to be attuned to the tree ancestors. The air was thick with generations of prayers, festivals and sacrifices to their deity Labasa. There was a rich biodiversity - tall trees, medicinal plants, orchids, thick foliage of ferns, creepers and mushrooms. Many of the plants, I felt, were endemic to that region. The guides showed the tall very old Rudraksha tree and also the rudraksha fallen there. The typical Khasi pine , I believe is highly medicinal. In the entire area, rain come. How I wished I could recognise the different trees! With the slightest of provocation, You see the sky darkening, and hear a distant clap of thunder and there! the sky opens up to pour down. That and the humus collecting undisturbed for years weave this green magic. When you enter from the vast space covered with grass into a green tunnel, the change is so dramatic (I was reminded of Alice falling into the wonderland!)
You could see some memorial stones like structures and in the clearing an altar like structure in the above photos. It was their place of sacrifice. they showed even a raised stone for the elder or chief to sit and supervise the rituals.
The unwavering faith of the Khasi people in the sacred forest has kept the forest spirit intact. I do believe in trees as our ancestors and their communication with us. They are very particular that the things of forest remain within the forest; you cannot take even a small piece of twig or a dried leaf outside. It is an absolute rule!
Even today the people live in close harmony with their forest - having annual festivals celebrated to appease the forest spirit and offer animals as sacrifice. Our guide insisted it is the reddish brown bull. I am not sure, what do they sacrifice now. I remember reading that they sacrifice goats and rooster.
If only one could be alone with the trees within the forest for even five minutes...
Then, we would be lost inside and there may be some wild predators!
Being there was a unique experience which I would rate as Number 1. (But you should pick a great story teller as your local guide. That will enrich your experience.)
As you go around 2 places, with the long wait in the traffic on mountains, it is already evening and begins to get dark. Remember, the place was just limping back to normalcy. So, it is back to the rooms, dinner, a session of 'Anthakshari' and to bed with the room heater on!.
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