Colour, feast, creativity

 Festivals bring to mind, joy, feasts, colour and being together. From Kashmir to Kanyakumari, from Gujarat to Arunachal Pradesh - throughout the Indian sub-continent, every day is an occasion for  celebration. There are numerous stories behind each of these festivals. Music and dancing, a riotous splash of colours and multiple spreads with mouth-watering delicacies, that are distinct to each region. How can a festival be complete without these?!

Some festivals appear to be observed all over the country yet with distinct local flavour and colour. Each story, tradition and belief associated with these festivals are garnished with subtle similarities despite their different flavours.

The elusive, moody and unpredictable monsoons yet the most welcome rain bearing winds brings all of us together from the east, west, north and south under one umbrella. 

The festivals carry around them, numerous occasions. The pre monsoon wait, the wait to start farming, sowing, transplanting, harvesting; the celebrations thanking all the elements of nature along with the Sun God, Surya, the list unfurls!

The southwest monsoon engulfs almost the entire country by September. But as it retreats, the random occasional showers contrast with the high drama in the surrounding seas and oceans. Low pressure systems, depressions and wind patterns keep us guessing. Be it the intense coastal rains, particularly along the east coast or the sudden outburst of thunder showers in the interior, the high play of emotions and the action-packed scenes unfold as if in a Shakespearean play. However there is no script or plan to this drama.

As this monsoon wind retreats from the land, the other (Northeast) moves in along the coast. Rain brings hope, new life, a new agricultural season and the nurturing earth opens up providing sustenance. This season (ऋतु ) known as शरद (autumn) is the transition from the long and hot summer months to balmy weather, cool nights and winter gradually. 

Thus we see, the people, bursting out in songs and dances and celebrating the occasion with mouth watering delicacies - be it the 'vrath' food sans grains and pulses of Gujarat using kuttu, saabudhana,(sago) potato, vegetables and fruits; Durga Pujo bhog from Bengal with the fluffy mouth-watering Roshogolla, the ubiquitous kichuri, beguni or payesh; rabri, malpua, jalebi in the northern parts or varieties of 'sundal' made with cooked pulses suitably tempered from the south! Ah... 'foodies out there! I know, this land  speaks eloquently to our minds, bodies and souls with the spread of dishes that call to our palate. There is a beautiful pattern to the items offered to God during each of the festivals (of course, to be eaten and relished by us humans. ) - in harmony with the climate, the soil and the systems within our body. The food is a delight,  tickling the taste buds and captivating our attention with the aroma, providing a visual treat to the eyes while nourishing our stomach with comfort and energising our muscles. 

Fast or feast - this festival of nine nights is celebrating the victory of good over evil. In the eastern and north-eastern states it symbolises the victory of goddess Durga over the buffalo headed demon (Mahisasura); in the north and western states it is marked as Dussehra celebrating the victory of Ram  over Ravan.  in the south it is the worship of Shakthi which culminates in Ayuda Pooja on Navami (9th day ) followed by Vijaya Dashami , observing the victory. 


Again, it is not so simple with only two versions - the story and belief may be the same but the manifestation of the victory of good over evil takes a multitude of forms, artistic performances and creativity. 
Each of the Durga Puja pandal is distinct and unique under the general theme.  Ah... the bhog! Isn't it marked with specific snacks, special delicacies with distinct flavour? 
The tradition of Bhog during Durga Puja can be traced to the days of British expansion after the historic British victory in Battle of Plassey. The story goes like this - Naba Krishna Deb was appointed as the language interpreter to Clive. A beautiful bond, friendship evolved between the translator and the coloniser. Clive had persuaded Deb to showcase Durga Puja on a grand scale. Lord Clive, familiar with Hindu festivals, wanted to witness the Puja on a grand scale and it all began in Deb's place in North Kolkata as Sovabajar Rajbari Puja.  Those days, the socio economic disparities did not allow all people to participate in these celebrations but times have changed to make Pujo , a celebration of the entire neighbourhood or community. Some rare delicacies continue to tease and tempt our taste buds but the versatile and humble  Khichuri takes the centre-stage. 

Just consider this menu: A breakfast of muri, or puffed rice, batasha (sugar drops) and fruits followed by a mid-morning snack of patla khichuri (thin khichdi)…phew! then Devi Durga can get ready for a lavish lunch spread - mutton curry, rui maacher kaalia, prawn malaikari, paachmishaalir torkari (medley of five vegetables), dal, chutney, papad, curd and sweets. 

Do you wonder about the fish and mutton delicacies? Devi is considered as the daughter of the land and the people show their love with offering what they like the most. Evening is a different story in this pandal - Devi and in turn the devotees are treated to a spread of luchi, five types of fries, basanti pulao (fragrant gobindo bhog rice cooked with turmeric for a golden touch) and payesh. One of the people in charge lovingly quips, " She (Ma Durga) is a real foodie just like us."
Here again,  there is an emotionally charged story of sending off the daughter (Ma Durga) who came for just a 10 days visit to her mother's place. 
Think of Gujarat and festivals - Navratri, Garba and the 'joie de vivre' of Dandiya' is what come to mind. 
The story of Mahishasura must be a familiar story to most of us. ( Depending on the region, there may be distinct local touches to make it unique for the region.) The asura (monster, grew powerful with the boon that he could not be killed by any weapon.  So all the Gods put together their power and created Adhya Shakthi to destroy the asura. She fought with him for nine days and nights; tenth day marked her victory (Vijaya Dasami). 
It is also time to celebrate soil fertility and the nurturing monsoon showers. a mound of fresh soil represents this in which grains are sown and watered. Green shoots sprout in these nine days which is worshipped.                                       
 
During these nine evenings, pujas are performed and people turn up in their fineries and sway to the rhythms of dhol and perform garba dance or swing and hit the sticks in pairs for a lively Dandiya. Garba is the clay lantern with light inside representing Devi Durga or feminine Shakthi. The dance is performed in a circle around this light which can also symbolise fetus or foetus in the womb.                                               
     The circle, certainly reminds one of the typical belief of this land - the cycle of time and of birth, death, again rebirth. The entire garba concept beautifully reveals the one constant in this endless cycle is Ma Durga (represented by the stationary light in the centre with the continuous movement around. 

And the story has a different twist when we move southwards.   



You must have heard of the majestic royal Dasara procession in Mysuru. It draws tourists from within the country and from other parts of the world. Mahisasura is from this place, according to the traditions prevalent here. " Mysuru' is in fact derived rom the word, 'Mahishur' or 'Mahisasurana Uru' to mean the town of Mahisasura in Kannada. Yes, Mysuru was ruled by the Asura and to bring an end to the difficulties caused by him,  all the gods and Devatha Log prayed to Goddess Parvathy who came down as Chamundeshwari. Those of you who have been to Mysuru and even others who know of the places to visit there! Are you thinking of Chamundi Hills? Yes, that is where the Goddess defeated and killed Mahishasura. After the event, that hills has become the abode of Chamundeshwari. How will people rejoice in the victory of good over evil - they bring together a 10 day long Dasara festival.  It all started with Vijayanagara kings around 15th century, then continued under the Wodeyars of Mysuru.  There is a special durbar (royal assembly) being held in the Mysore Palace since 1805. 
The 400th anniversary of Mysore Dasara was celebrated in 2010. 
Let's leave the royal grandeur to enjoy the creativity and imagination of people around us. 

People arrange clay/terracotta toys , painted colourfully, on steps or stairs (usually in odd number like3/5/7/9). It is Bombe Habba (Kannada), Bommai golu (Tamizh), Bommala Goluvu (Telugu) and Bomma Gullu (Malayalam). 



There appears a theme within theme - the women of the house arrange and position the dolls in  a manner that the dolls tell stories of their own. There are dolls, like family heirlooms handed down from generation to generation; then there are new set of dolls depicting a tribal life or urban life, a marriage procession or depicting a scene from Ramayana or Mahabharata.

Do you know, there is a general rule - as to what kind of dolls must be placed in each step? It is like Maslow's hierarchy of needs or like evolution from simple grass to trees, then other animals, birds and then man. It symbolises how we have to move from simple materialistic needs to evolve spiritually - thus above human beings , we can arrange saints, sages like Sri Ramakrishna, Ramana or great visionaries and leaders; then move to arrange small devatha and Navagraha  and then the top most step is allotted for Gods and Goddesses - Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva, Vinayaka, Krishna and Shakthi in different forms will occupy centre-stage here. It symbolises the stages by which  a human being attains divinity; how one has to rise above worldly materials, attachment, greed, ego and desires to be one with the Divine Self. 

I know of women, who hand craft items to create a theme-based golu - it may be Puranic stories one time; it can show case our technological achievements; or it can take you around places of pilgrimage or you can even see Star wars /Avengers merchandise and figures /dolls of Thor, Captain America, Hulk, Black Widow, Wasp, Princess Leia, Darth Vader, Admiral Motti, Q'ira and many others! 

All these theme based dolls and figures are displayed either in front of or on the side of the traditional steps. Of course, in front of all these, there will be Rangoli designs.  

Think of the self sustained community - potters, doll makers, people who make the paints, flower growers and sellers, weavers, tailors and the farmers who grow pulses, and many others. This was the way that festivals used to bind people at different levels in many layers in the past. Within the layers, there used to be space for stories, customs, creativity, music and dance. It is not the same spontaneous connection that we see today. Yes, it still lingers in the small local doll maker's outlets where people flock to buy some new dolls every year; the way, girls dress up and visit friends' houses, sing without a moment's hesitation and relish the "sundal' varieties; it manifests itself when women and girls from all social and economic strata are honoured and cherished upon their entry into the house; it is felt in the joy of creativity as it is worshipped as Goddess of learning (Saraswati). 

The streets (Maada streets - மாட வீதி) around Kapaleeshwar temple in Mylapore, Chennai come alive with sale of dolls - to suit all tastes and purses. 

Festivals draw their meaning and significance from the people. When every section of the community has a role to play and gain something from the occasion,  going along with the rhythm of the seasons, sunlight and rains , it is celebration of connection and creativity. 
 

I just have added my creations of Navratri kolam here. This is  my way of meditation to evoke the Shakthi within. 
या देवी सर्वभुतेषु क्षान्तिरूपेण संस्थिता ।
या देवी सर्वभुतेषु शक्तिरूपेण संस्थिता ।
या देवी सर्वभुतेषु मातृरूपेण संस्थिता ।
या देवी सर्वभुतेषु बुद्धिरूपेण संस्थिता ।
नमस्तस्यै नमस्तस्यै नमस्तस्यै नमो नमः ॥
I bow to that Goddess who is omnipresent as the symbol of motherhood, as embodiment of power, who resides in all living beings as intelligence, who is a symbol of peace.







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