A unique travel experience - 3

To dream big!

It was my long time dream to stand in front of that impressive monument.As we approached the place, with abated breath, I waited for that exact moment when my eyes would behold that grandeur. Oh! there it was! As our bus turned to move along the outer walls, looking across the centuries past, it stood - a silent witness to the transiency of human life. Something jumped and shifted deep within me with the first glimpse. 

"How did you feel being the only son and most loved, guiding the Chola army to victory after victory, fulfilling your revered father's every dream, Prince Rajendra?" - I silently threw the question at the walls of Gangai Kondacholapuram temple, the massive Nandhi and the tall Vimana. Do you think, by any chance, I would get an answer through these creations that were the result of his dreams? 

Every stone, pillar and sculpture of the temple has Rajendra's name etched on them. You try standing in front of the structure and try to communicate with it! Then you will know my feeling. When he planned to build a new capital, naturally to his Lord and God (Shiva), he wanted to build a temple. He marched up to Bengal (the then Pala kingdom), conquered them and brought water from Ganga to consecrate the temple here.  The descendants of the master builder of Thanjavur temple were the builders here. The massive size, the Nandhi and some basic structures are similar in both places but each of them has a character of their own. 

Gnana Saraswati

When we were moving around in the Prakara (प्राकारम् - the pathway around the sanctum), the walls  stun you with elaborate carved niches with beautifully sculptures deities placed within. The Gnana Saraswati and the one called 'Sandeswara Prasadam' filled my heart with an indescribable emotion. 

Sandeswara Prasadam

 Are you wondering about who this Sandeswara is? Hey! I am certainly not going to start off a story telling session! Just know that he was one ardent devotee of Lord Shiva and Shiva blessed him and gave him an important role of keeping track of the people coming into the temple to worship. Can you see Sandeswara bowing in front of Shiva and accepting a garland?  

The professor, expert in different disciplines, put forth an interesting perspective about the long wait in the wings  - of the most worthy son to be recognised as the crown prince to duly succeed the illustrious father. If you know a little bit of Chola history, you may recall that for a few years towards the end of Rajaraja's reign, Rajendra was the co-regent. I leave it to you to link the dots. Sandeswara here, represents Rajendra who gets his recognition and authority from the Supreme Lord Himself (Obviously!)

You can understand my feelings, can't you? The place does not appear as a mere granite monument to me. Wasn't it trying to tell me about that young man with a great vision?Beginning with this temple, what we experienced in the other two temples as well made me wonder - who is scientifically and technically advanced. 

The pilasters (Architectural designs carved as projections in walls with placing of deities within it), the beautiful sculptures of different deities within the niche, the huge Vimana (sanctum tower), the molded horizontal projections (cornices) or their knowledge of proportions, aesthetics and precise calculations of where to put what kind of structure  and its weight... Ooh! let me take a breath!

Sh-shh.. want to share a secret with you all! (then it is no secret, do you say? So be it!) When I stood before those beautiful creations, I wanted to break out in a song -dance sequence like our Bollywood/Tollywood or whatever! You want to try and find out how you would feel? Good idea!

We would cover the other two 'Great  Living Chola Temples' in the coming two days - built by three  Chola kings - Great Rajaraja, Rajendra, his son and  Rajaraja II (12th century). Each stands a true representative of the period and the king responsible for its building.
I retired for the night but like a chocolate lover being promised a great treat after a good night's sleep.

Here is something 'for the road', friends. Here are the three temples.Look at the shape of the vimana, the structure and size. Ride on your imagination till we meet again.

A unique travel experience -2

Walking on the path of Vandiyathevan

A historical trip/ heritage tour? What is it that I have signed myself in for? Wasn't that going to be a nostalgic trip for the die-hard fan of the novel? Yes, the churning in my mind had begun with the tour day fast approaching. Patience, my friends. The tour organisers had put together a tour to ensure a rich, well rounded experience, no doubt! But I was curious as to when and how would they introduce us to a brief study of Chola history and the war strategies of Rajendra Chola as their itinerary promised.

I was excited as April 26th was just round the corner. How many ever trips I make - long/short; brief/overnight; by road/train - I love the preparations of packing and completing tasks in hand on time. On these types of tours every thing is new - new people to befriend, new places to visit, new boarding houses and new food!That adds to the excitement, don't you think?  Finally, the moment came. When I boarded the bus, the first of the introductions were already over as we were waiting in the same pick up point.

Darkness was falling outside and inside the bus, we had our introduction session and snacks to munch along. If you think, the six hours of travel went like this, you are mistaken. The first session of lecture cum slide shows with flow charts and maps began in the bus. It covered the dynastic history of Cholas, the cultural aspects of life then and the list of sources of history. I wonder how Mr. Ramesh, who was in charge of such lectures did this without slipping up anywhere. ("Been there and done it all"as a history teacher.) An interesting warm up?  

Amidst a soothing green of tall coconut trees, flowering plants and mango trees, there is an old style Zamindar bungalow with an extension serving as a resort and yes, it was our first stop. Morning, we woke up to chirping birds and a quiet dawn. 
With a tempting and delicious spread of home made 
array of dishes, I had to be monk renouncing the pleasures of taste, not to overeat. Only a wee bit, I shushed the warning voice! 

We began the exploration of the day - to walk on the trail of the spy along the Veeranarayanapuram lake. I could remember the unfolding of the scenes of festivity along the lake and our hero's thoughts very vividly.

"What joyous delight even as I approach the Chola Kingdom! What wonders will the fertile, bountiful land beyond Kollidam hold? How would the men and women of that country behave? How many rivers? How many reservoirs? How many clear streams? How wondrous would be the river Ponni (Cauvery) praised in song and epic?" 
This is how our hero Vandiya thevan - heart swelling with pride - moved along the lake. When I stood on the banks of the lake, with fair amount of water, was there any reason for me to feel other than pride?  The sheer size, about 72 canals/floodgates still in working condition and wise water conservation and management techniques of about 1000 years ago definitely make us proud but what is our role here?  


It was still early days of the new Chola kingdom when they have to face imminent threat of invading armies from Rashtrakutas (north) or a constant attack from the long time enemies - Pandyas. Prince Rajaditya with his army was anticipating an invasion from the Rashtrakutas but what should a responsible and future king do while waiting? He did not keep his soldiers idle but involved them in building a lake which would receive waters from the northern tributaries of Cauvery. A lesson or two for our political and corporate leaders, eh?
How did he name it? Certainly not after him but to honour his father, Parantaka, he named it Veera narayanapuram lake. 

With a promise that we would walk the road once again in the evening we went in search of Kadambur palace - where secret meetings took place and plans to murder the ailing Chola king (Sundara Chola), the crown prince (Aditya Karikala) and his younger brother, Arulmozhi varman (who later becomes the great Chola ruler, Rajaraja I). There are ruins of what could have been a palace but the temple nearby has an important inscription about the trial of the murder of the crown prince. The inscription clearly mentions the names of the three brothers whose brainchild was the assassination plot. There are different versions about why these three were not punished but one thing is certain - the lands of even the distant relatives of these people were confiscated by the government. 
The local expert, an octogenarian scholar and teacher regaled us with many stories about the places on the way the past and present scenario and presented a vivid picture of the trial for the murder of Aditya Karikala, conducted by Rajaraja at the very same place in that temple where we sat around him. I was trying to understand and absorb the depth and intensity of the events. My mind kept coming back to the same point - Rajaraja, the individual and wondered what kind of emotions he had to hide and what he had to exaggerate?
But then refreshing drinks - typical local versions like 'Nungu'(Palmyra fruit), Nannari sherbet (Sarsaparilla) and others were waiting for us back in the resort; the local farmers had an entertainment planned for us - a skit depicting the chieftains coming together at Kadambur playing power games too was part of the afternoon plan. 
Then of course, evening would bring us a visual treat - which words cannot do justice to! 

A unique travel experience

Getting ready to soak in history!

When I was young, back in the early sixties of the last  century, this historic novel came as a serial in a magazine which captivated the young and the old alike. It became a staple diet for my friend and myself who loved the romantic and glorious past.  

It was a historic novel written by Kalki Krishnamurthy, a great writer, known for his vivid style with the right amount of humour. The novel when later published as a book, ran into five volumes. It describes the story of Arulmozhi varman who went on to be known as the great Chola king, Rajaraja I later. This novel is considered his magnum opus wherein he had taken two or three historic events, added a few fictitious characters (memorable ones!) and spun a beautiful story of intrigues, conspiracies and romance. 

The pace is gripping and the plot unfolds with enough suspense that it reels in readers even today. Wonder if we can attribute the magic of the novel entirely to the brilliant writing style or is it something more?

Today with the ever growing influence of social media, I see so many Facebook groups coming together as avid fans of the novel and showing interest in the history. To quote 'Outlook' magazine," Some stories grow so big they become inevitable. Tamil Nadu's phenomenally popular epic novel,'Ponniyin Selvan' is one such tale." 

The title means 'The son of Kaveri' or Ponni's beloved'.

Ever since the first time I was hooked to follow the spy, Vandiathevan (one of the protagonists) on his trail ( the novel opens up when he moves along slowly on horseback along Veeranam - Veeranarayanapuram-Lake (Eri in Tamil)), how many more times I would have travelled the path along with him feeling a sense of excitement!
So begins the novel!

"....about two leagues far to the west of Thillai Chittrambalam, (Chidambaram Town) there spreads an ocean-like reservoir. It is known as Veera Narayana Lake. It is about a league and a half long north to south and about half a league wide east to west. Time has twisted its name: for these days the reservoir is known as Veeraanatthu Lake ... In the windy months of Aadi-Aavani (August), when new floods fill the reservoir to almost overflow, anyone who looks at the Veera Narayana lake will surely recall with pride and astonishment the splendid deeds of our ancestors in Tamil Nadu. Did those ancients do things merely for the welfare of themselves and the people of their own times? ... On the 18th day of the month of Aadi, in the early hours of the evening, a young warrior, mounted on a horse, was riding down the banks of this ocean-like Veera Narayana Lake. Vallavarayan Vandiya Devan was his name. Having travelled a long distance and being worn and weary, his horse was walking along rather slowly. The sprawling reservoir had so enchanted his heart!"

 (On land, the league is most commonly defined as 3 miles - 4.83 km)

Do I mean to say that the lake still exists, serving a valuable purpose? Is it still in workable condition with water flowing in from tributary of Kaveri, no kidding? 

After about five decades, an opportunity presents itself in front of me, the wanderer, to actually walk on the path of my hero! Will I let it slip off my hands! 

Young People with passion to study our glorious past and know about our heritage have come together with a few subject experts and scholars to provide a rich experience. So the heritage trip is named 'In the trails of the spy'. 

It covers a few important places - the places of action in the real past or in the novel. The trail starts from the lake as in the novel but then moves on to places nearby which have witnessed a battle or a plot unfolding or the great temples which were brought to life from the lofty dreams of the father and son duo - Rajaraja I and Rajendra Chola.

How does it feel to breath the same air that those warriors and great administrators breathed; to walk on the same land where the warring armies marched? 

Veeranarayapuram Lake (the saviour of Chennai city -providing the life-giving water), the old capital of Cholas (Pazhaiyarai - now a small village), Udaiyalur (where the great king, Rajaraja's  Samadhi is ), the awe inspiring magnitude of Thanjavur and Gangaikonda Cholapuram temples, the sheer beauty of the Darasuram temple (sculptures coming alive out of granite) the battle site of Thirupurampiyam (which marked the rise of the later Chola kings)  - delight to the history buff!
Am I one? What do you think? Do you want to come along with me?

Understanding our legacy

Wander lust, the longing to find the hidden stories in the life, language and customs of people and the awe inspiring forts and temples which had witnessed the rise and fall of dynasties   - What else do I need to pack a bag, don a hat and plunge into the mysterious world of travel?

Quite a lot of us born in the fifties of the previous century have been nurtured on a diet of interesting historic novels, here in Tamil Nadu. Many of them would be about the great Imperial Cholas and the tour is structured around one particular novel (Son of Kaveri - ‘Ponniyin Selvan’ in Tamil). The romantic in me would have travelled along with them on horseback, been part of important court discussions, even fought alongside with the great warriors and more than that, I would be the brave princess or the wise one whose words influenced the history of the kingdom!

So, is it a surprise that I readily joined the heritage tour which promised to provide a glimpse into the glorious period of king Raja raja Chola and his son, Rajendra?

Thoughtful tour schedule, well organised stays and the dedication and commitment of the tour organisers simply enriched the experience.

What struck me from the beginning is the organisers’ drive to not only initiate us into recognising and appreciating our heritage but to motivate us to carry it forward to the next generation.

The novel begins along the banks of the vast Veeranarayapuram Lake where the protagonist, the smart and quick witted spy Vandiyathevan would be riding on his horse to reach the Chola capital, Thanjavur. But for this lake, there would have been a great water crisis for the people of Chennai as this lake is the supplier of major share of water needs of Chennai. We took a few minutes to think of the foresight of a Chola prince during 10^th century in building this 11.2 Km long and 4 Km wide lake.

In the 19^th century, British engineer, Arthur Cotton was highly impressed by the strong structure of the lake. Here we are, utterly indifferent to the wisdom, plan and skill that have made this water reservoir more than 1000 years ago!

The story unfolds as he encounters some challenges, meet people from different walks of life. The story is woven around a few historical facts like the murder of the crown prince and how later, Raja Raja comes to throne.

We moved along the spy’s trail, visiting certain battle fields, temples built around hero stones and of course the temples of Darasuram, Gangaikonda Cholapuram and the Thanjavur temple - architectural and engineering marvels and World Heritage sites.  

The entire tour was approached from different angles - intellectual, emotional and sensory.

The temples are visual delight and when experts in ancient architecture and sculpture were there to direct our attention to details, it simply enhanced the experience. And each carving, each niche, turn, pillars and corners of those beauties in granite tell a different story and what kinds of drama they hold within!

 Three different temples, built by three different kings - father, son and grandson - each unique in its grandeur, character, structure such that each truly reflected the character of the king who built them. At least to me, that is how it appeared.

 

When we stood in front of Thanjavur ‘big temple’ in the morning just before sunrise, the sky was overcast. People have already started inching in. I do not think anyone can enter without being stunned at the entrance (Gopura). The sheer magnitude of the outer walls, the thickness and height, the once - present moat, the inner wall, and the two dwarapalaka (gate keepers) take your breath away. 

 We had a great scholar, expert in conservation architecture, archaeology, iconography, sculpture, history, literature, and marine archaeology (and all other disciplines under the Sun) to explain things to us. The moment he began highlighting the great features of the gate, height, width, length and other structural aspects passionately with pride, something deep within me moved. I felt as though, the spirit of the great king blessed that moment and all of us there.  

The battleground of the decisive battle which marked the beginning of Chola Empire is now green paddy fields but they are aware that those ancestors who fought the war and had died there were buried under their fields. There is a reverence and pride when they talk about it and we had a lot of fun when they presented a skit based on one incident from the novel.

  

The whole account would remain incomplete, if I do not mention the human factor. The experts’ explanations and other slide shows of the dynastic history were all interactive and the simplicity and ease with which the expert scholars joked around and tirelessly explained many things provided for an interesting learning. The villagers on the way, wherever we stopped for a site visit, showered us with their unreserved affection and open hospitality. We were loaded with tender coconuts, millet porridge, buttermilk and snacks. I was pleasantly surprised by the sense of history and the awareness about 1000 and more years of cultural and political legacy that sits well on their shoulders. The honest and open look and that megawatts smile that light the entire place - Oh! Where have we lost that warmth and human touch! 

All of us - belonging to this land regardless of the narrow restrictive regional and linguistic identity can be proud of this legacy for these two great kings dreamt big and scaled great heights.